ENKNYC continues to grow this season and will host 254 brands at The Tunnel/La Venue from Jan. 16 to 18, up from 242 in July and 182 the previous season.
“We see some good momentum, and this year got off to a good start at our women’s Accessorie Circuit and Intermezzo shows this week,” said Elyse Kroll, chairman and chief creative officer of ENK International. “We’ve actually been surprised by how busy we’ve been. I think both vendors and buyers are going into this season…incredibly hopeful.”
Like last season, ENKNYC — which emphasizes men’s brands — is divided into four distinct sub-shows, grouping similar brands together. The Designer’s Collective area will be focused on tailored clothing and sportswear collections, such as Ted Baker, Nicole Farhi, Transit Uomo and Orthodox. Blue targets denim and progressive labels, such as Current/Elliott, Vince, Sundek and Boast. The Tomorrow section showcases younger, emerging labels, including Klaxon Howl, Andrew Buckler, Kill City and Barque. Clean offers up grooming ranges, such as Nickel and Costume National fragrances.
This season, the Tomorrow section has been relocated to the main show floor from the upstairs space in which it was situated last season. Brands that show in Tomorrow are given special reduced rates in order to promote new designers.
“We subsidize the brands in Tomorrow — it’s like a scholarship of sorts,” explained Kroll. “We need to do this because, while stores are selling safe brands, I think we need to get them excited about selling new lines and designers. If we are not in the forefront of introducing new lines, then we are not providing as great a service to retailers as we should be.”
ENK introduced a smartphone app this week at its Accessorie Circuit and Intermezzo shows, and will offer a similar app for the ENKNYC show. Visitors will be given a password upon entering the show that will allow them to download interactive show guides and floor maps onto their iPhones, BlackBerrys or Android devices. “It’s a very cool app, and I think it’s taken our shows to the next level,” said Kroll.
Like other shows, ENK is also in the process of building a Web platform for its shows that will allow vendors and buyers to interact online. “We are working on it every single day, but I don’t know that we want to be the first one out of the gate with it. We’re thinking long and hard about what we want to create online. But it will be a tool that allows you to work together when you are away from the actual show,” said Kroll.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion