MILAN — Ittierre is reviewing its portfolio of licenses and streamlining its structure.
Owner Antonio Bianchi told WWD that, after two seasons, the Karl Lagerfeld Paris license has been mutually terminated before its five-year expiration date. He added that “relations with the Lagerfeld Maison remain excellent.”
The entrepreneur also revealed that the C’N’C license has not been renewed, following the termination of the Costume National license. “We are focusing on our more-profitable licenses,” he explained.
Ittierre has been growing its portfolio of brands with new licenses, including Aquascutum, Tommy Hilfiger Collection and Jean Paul Gaultier’s men’s collection and the designer’s new streetwear line for men and women, Gaultier 2, in addition to Pierre Balmain, Guy Laroche and Galliano.
“These are the brands we will bring forward and grow,” said Bianchi, noting that he is working on renewing the GFF Ferré license. Ittierre also has a production agreement with Thierry Mugler. Additional licenses are not being evaluated before the restructuring of the company, said Bianchi.
A meeting between Bianchi and Italy’s minister of development was held this week in Rome as Ittierre is planning to restructure the company and cut its workforce. “It was a very positive meeting. We inherited 700 workers from the previous owner [Tonino Perna], but we cannot have more than 300 employees, in proportion to our revenues, which last year totaled 130 million euros [$171.3 million],” said Bianchi.
Bianchi, who also owns innerwear and beachwear producer Albisetti SpA, took control of Ittierre in 2011, after almost two years of government-backed bankruptcy protection.
Bianchi lamented “the absence of politicians and social support [since then]. Entrepreneurs must be practical and make their own decisions.” Bianchi said he is seeking an industrial partner and is in talks with several parties, expecting to ink an agreement in the short term. Bianchi is expected to start talking with members of the unions on Thursday. “There is no time to waste,” he said.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast