NEW YORK — Cool fall days were on the minds of retailers andexhibitors, who were busy writing fall orders at Coterie, which ran Feb.24 to Feb. 26 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center and Pier 94 inNew York. Some 1,401 exhibitors were featured, spanning thecontemporary, eveningwear, denim and accessories categories.
Among the key fall trends were:
• Leather everywhere, in trims, jackets and sportswear.
• Straight, skinny bottoms; track pants and tuxedo stripes on pants.
• Hybrid jackets including sweater-coat jackets, motocross jackets that mix leather and wovens and military-inspired looks.
• Embellishments such as gold hardware, studs, metals, jewels and sequins.
• Textured knitwear.
• Lots of black and white, as well as geometric patterns and prints.
JamesHogan, who owns two women’s stores in Worcester, Mass., and Savannah,Ga., under his own name, said: “We buy a ton here. We loved Ted Baker,especially those floral dresses.” He said he caters to a lot of collegestudents in Savannah and that line is good for them. He also bought fromEdward Achour Paris and T.ba, “which has amazing riding, equestrianlooks and Edwardian coats. I bought it last fall and sold out in threedays,” said Hogan. He also liked Aldo Martin’s for their novelty knits,and Svee, “which does wonderful quality knits, which look like thingsyou find in Italy.”
Andy Mallor, owner of Andrew Davis, a men’sand women’s clothing shop in Bloomington, Ind., was shopping Coteriewith his daughter, Kate Mallor, the women’s buyer. Last October, AndrewDavis started carrying women’s apparel. Among the women’s lines theywere buying were David Lerner, Vince and Waverly Grey. “Waverly Grey ismade in New York. The vegan leather pieces were beautiful,” said KateMallor. “I love things that are made in the U.S.” She also lovedSmythe’s blazers and tartan pants.
Maureen Goldberg, owner ofMaureen Goldberg Fashions, a specialty store in Amagansett, N.Y.,thought this was the best show of the year and she wrote many orders.“The clothes look really good this year,” she said. She noted that shebought a lot of big, oversize looks in sweaters, tops and soft dressing.Some of the lines she bought at the show were Planet and Comfy USA Inc.From Comfy, she bought a lot of knits that were “soft, drapy andwonderfully priced.” She also liked Sarah Pacini’s gorgeous knits, pantsand jackets and the quality of John Laing.
“It’s been a verygood show. We’ve been busy all day,” said Christopher Fischer, who ownsthe knitwear company bearing his name. He said he was selling texturalpieces, intarsia sweaters, animal sweaters, mixed media and multigaugetextures and light textures mixed with heavy gauges.
“People arelooking for better quality cashmere, value and design,” said Fischer,whose knits start at $79 wholesale and can go as high as $400 wholesalefor the heavy pieces. Fischer, who in addition to his wholesale businesshas five freestanding stores, is launching a new Web site that hase-commerce over the next few months. It will be a global site, withcapability of doing business in the U.S., U.K. and China.
RuthyGrode, chief executive officer of Bailey 44, said she was having a verygood show and her booth was crowded with retailers. She said she wasdoing well with “anything quilted and anything in leather or tweed.” Forfall, Bailey 44 did a lot of washed jacquards and combined eco leatherand fine-gauge ponte to create jackets and blazers. One, for example,combined a classic blazer with a casual leather drawstring hood. Anothercombined leather and bouclé for a moto-style jacket. Wholesale priceson the jackets ranged between $149 and $179. Among the accounts workingwith Bailey 44 at the show were Tony Walker & Co., E Street Denim,Intermix, Saks Fifth Avenue, Lonnys and Willow St.
KamaliKulture, whose pieces are priced under $100 retail, was showing atCoterie for the first time. Among the looks they were selling werejersey dresses, separates and swimwear in sizes XS to XL. The companycurrently does business with such retailers as Amazon.com, Zappos.com,Nordstrom Direct and Opening Ceremony. A spokeswoman said they had beenwriting orders from various Japanese retailers, as well as stores fromFlorida and Virginia.
Minnie Rose, which had a very active booth,was introducing its new “swag suit,” which is the updated version ofthe velour tracksuit. The design features a biker jacket with aremovable Mongolian fur collar. The jacket can be paired with either thehipster skinny leggings or pants with zippers down the side. “Just as Isaw a need in the market with the original tracksuit for a young girl, Isaw that it was time to revitalize the suit for the woman of today,”said Lisa Shaller-Goldberg, founder and owner of Minnie Rose, whopreviously worked at Juicy Couture. The new swag suit comes in sizes XSthrough XL. Wholesale prices for the hipster skinny leggings are $58 andthe sassy pants with zippers down the side are $79; the biker-chicjacket is $117, and one with the Mongolian fur collar is $167. Azip-sleeve pullover wholesales for $68.
Shaller-Goldberg saidshe was also seeing a lot of action for her wovens, sleeveless cowl-necksweaters and herringbone, color-blocked and geometric knitwear groups.“Business is phenomenal. We’ve been slammed nonstop,” saidShaller-Goldberg.
Jovani was also having a busy show. Theeveningwear firm was opening new accounts and increasing its businesswith existing accounts, said Abraham Maslavi, chief operating officerand co-owner. He said they had seen many international accounts fromplaces such as United Arab Emirates, London and Turkey. Jovani currentlydoes business with stores such as Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Harrods.
KathyHilton was busy showing her eveningwear line. Her company sells at suchretailers as Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and HarveyNichols. Clarissa O’Connor, sales manager, said she was seeing lots ofnew international accounts. Hilton said wholesale prices range between$225 and $330.
Rebecca Minkoff was doing well with its newsportswear offerings. One of its bestsellers was a fitted leather andwool blazer. The company recently launched a knitwear collection, whichhas gotten off to a brisk start. “Novelty knitwear has been verystrong,” said Elissa Bromer, president of Rebecca Minkoff, pointing toluxurious hand-knit cardigans and big cowl-neck sweaters.
Alberta Ferretti's "Rainbow Week" sweaters are back. The designer closed her #MFW show with a few day-of-the-week sweaters, which first debuted on the catwalk last January as part of the pre-fall 2017 collection. #wwdfashion (📷: @delphineachard)