PARIS — It’s been a busy start to the year for Officine Générale’s Pierre Mahéo since presenting his men’s collection in January, with the creation in just four weeks of a women’s line due to be presented in a Paris showroom March 4.“It’s a small miracle, but sometimes when you want something, you make it happen,” said the founder and creative director of the Paris-based label, who expects over the next two years that women's wear sales will become double that of his men’s wear business, which launched in 2013.The collection will sit in the same affordable luxury positioning as his men’s line, he said, with a focus on timeless classics in high-quality fabrications using premium fabrics sourced from Britain, Japan and Italy.“The women’s market is much bigger than men’s, which is still a growing market, but there is a niche for high-quality product at decent price points,” said Mahéo, who added that he had received requests from a number of retailers carrying his men's line to add women's. While he declined to disclose figures, sources estimate the brand generated total sales of $3.3 million in 2015.Mahéo said the fall women's collection, which features about 80 pieces, borrows from his men’s line in terms of finishing and details, but is still “superfeminine. We did a capsule for women based on smaller sizes of our men’s line for Le Bon Marché’s “Le vestiaire voléaux hommes” [“The wardrobe stolen from men”] concept in 2015, which worked great, but that is not the idea here,” he said.Items include fitted denim, blouses with ruffles and raw edges, and long shirts studded with itty-bitty versions of the flat, gold buttons typically found on men’s blazers. For the constructions, Mahéo incorporated tailoring elements from men’s wear on the inside of jackets, coats and pants.The designer also revisited a men’s robe he found in a vintage store in Brooklyn, worked in flannel with a contrast silk shawl collar. Highlights from the outerwear section include a military four-pocket parka in a washed olive Japanese fabric, a leather bomber with a removable fur collar and a double-breasted navy coat with black piping. A lot of the pieces come fitted with deep interior pockets for the modern woman on the move. “I’ve noticed that a lot of women leave the house without a bag nowadays, so I’ve created pockets that can hold a phone and a notebook, or whatever,” said Mahéo. Prices range from about $220 for a blouse to $2,500 for a blazer.Fabrics include a seamless brushed Shetland wool from Scotland, a Storm System fully water-repellent wool, flannels by Fox Brothers, and “amazing Italian velvets in deep, rich colors.” The label’s knitwear is made in Italy, and the shoes come from England, with the bulk of the brand’s production done in Portugal.Mahéo, who for now has been concentrating on fine tuning the fits on the women’s line, spending time adjusting shoulders, say, or working on a certain shape of collar, said the only missing element is skirts and dresses, which will be introduced for spring 2018.Officine Générale counts roughly 120 points of sale around the globe, including Bergdorf Goodman and Harrods. The brand owns two stores in Paris, with a third store due to open here later this year. The brand is also actively scouting a London store, Mahéo said.
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)