PARIS — It’s been a busy start to the year for Officine Générale’s Pierre Mahéo since presenting his men’s collection in January, with the creation in just four weeks of a women’s line due to be presented in a Paris showroom March 4.“It’s a small miracle, but sometimes when you want something, you make it happen,” said the founder and creative director of the Paris-based label, who expects over the next two years that women's wear sales will become double that of his men’s wear business, which launched in 2013.The collection will sit in the same affordable luxury positioning as his men’s line, he said, with a focus on timeless classics in high-quality fabrications using premium fabrics sourced from Britain, Japan and Italy.“The women’s market is much bigger than men’s, which is still a growing market, but there is a niche for high-quality product at decent price points,” said Mahéo, who added that he had received requests from a number of retailers carrying his men's line to add women's. While he declined to disclose figures, sources estimate the brand generated total sales of $3.3 million in 2015.Mahéo said the fall women's collection, which features about 80 pieces, borrows from his men’s line in terms of finishing and details, but is still “superfeminine. We did a capsule for women based on smaller sizes of our men’s line for Le Bon Marché’s “Le vestiaire voléaux hommes” [“The wardrobe stolen from men”] concept in 2015, which worked great, but that is not the idea here,” he said.Items include fitted denim, blouses with ruffles and raw edges, and long shirts studded with itty-bitty versions of the flat, gold buttons typically found on men’s blazers. For the constructions, Mahéo incorporated tailoring elements from men’s wear on the inside of jackets, coats and pants.The designer also revisited a men’s robe he found in a vintage store in Brooklyn, worked in flannel with a contrast silk shawl collar. Highlights from the outerwear section include a military four-pocket parka in a washed olive Japanese fabric, a leather bomber with a removable fur collar and a double-breasted navy coat with black piping. A lot of the pieces come fitted with deep interior pockets for the modern woman on the move. “I’ve noticed that a lot of women leave the house without a bag nowadays, so I’ve created pockets that can hold a phone and a notebook, or whatever,” said Mahéo. Prices range from about $220 for a blouse to $2,500 for a blazer.Fabrics include a seamless brushed Shetland wool from Scotland, a Storm System fully water-repellent wool, flannels by Fox Brothers, and “amazing Italian velvets in deep, rich colors.” The label’s knitwear is made in Italy, and the shoes come from England, with the bulk of the brand’s production done in Portugal.Mahéo, who for now has been concentrating on fine tuning the fits on the women’s line, spending time adjusting shoulders, say, or working on a certain shape of collar, said the only missing element is skirts and dresses, which will be introduced for spring 2018.Officine Générale counts roughly 120 points of sale around the globe, including Bergdorf Goodman and Harrods. The brand owns two stores in Paris, with a third store due to open here later this year. The brand is also actively scouting a London store, Mahéo said.
“I design by visualization. I see things, and most of the time they’re not practical to actually make, and what I’ve found here, it’s like anything’s possible. This is the first time that I’ve made a sole unit in two months. That process usually would take six, so here’s a difference,” said @virgilabloh of the first sneaker sample he created for @louisvuitton, pictured here. Abloh spoke to WWD about his debut collection for Louis Vuitton, creating @kendalljenner’s #metgala outfit and redefining the heritage brand. Read the full story on WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @alfredo_piola)
The world’s largest producer of denim @iskodenim is sharing the strategy behind its product development process. Read our full interview with ISKO’s product development manager Baris Ozden on the company’s extensive research practices, upcoming denim trends and the latest material innovations on WWD.com. #iskodenim
“I genuinely fell in love with water, I fell in love with Fiji, I fell in love with the whole life that we lived for those few months,” says @mrsamclaflin of filming for his new movie “Adrift” with @shailenewoodley. The 31-year-old actor spoke with WWD about his upcoming projects, meeting Jamie Dornan and working with co-star Woodley. #wwdeye (📷: @jamstoker)
3 years ago, fans of the late singer Aaliyah started calling for a collaboration with @maccosmetics. With the strength of social media — including mock ups of products — 25,000 people signed a Change.org petition for a limited-edition collection, and MAC couldn’t ignore the buzz. Tomorrow, MAC will unveil MAC x Aaliyah, a tribute to the singer who passed away nearly 17 years ago. Head to our stories to preview the new collection, which was worked on by Aaliyah’s family and inspired directly by her makeup bag. #wwdbeauty
Artistic director @clarewaightkeller will be dedicating @givenchyofficial’s fall 2018 couture show in Paris on July 1 to house founder Hubert de Givenchy, who passed away in March at age 91. Givenchy said the collection would be “an homage to his iconic creations, technique, and personal lexicon” and a “celebration of his timeless elegance and grace.” Head to WWD.com to read more. #wwdfashion (📷: Delphine Achard)
La Double J made a name for itself with its vintage-inspired prints, but for resort, designer JJ Martin has ventured into new territory: enter rich jewel toned solids and decadent embellishment, in the form of appliqués, crystals and sequins. #wwdfashion #resort19 #ladoublej
This Just In: J. Crew Group has named Johanna Uurasjarvi as its chief design officer.
Uurasjarvi succeeds Somsack Sikhounmuong, who left the company last September. Tap the link in bio for the full report. #wwdnews
“She came into my hotel room and she was like, ‘I have Chanel and Christian Dior.’ She was like, ‘Chanel likes you.’ And I was like, ‘I’m going to start crying,’” breakout star Maddie Hasson tells WWD of her styling sessions Molly Dickson. “I really like classic, elegant things. I love the way Anna Wintour dresses.” Read more about Hasson’s role in @impulseseries on wwd.com. (📸: @jgreenery ) #wwdeye
@virgilabloh revealed he's working with Australian stylist and
Vogue Australia fashion director @christinecentenera for his debut @louisvuitton men's collection, which will be presented in Paris on June 21. Centenera met Abloh while both working with Kanye West, where she consulted on his all his runway collections since his debut spring 2012 women's wear show. Read the full story on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #wwdnews (📷: @asussmanphoto)