Slim silhouettes, heritage brands, knitwear and outerwear werekey draws for retailers in town to shop the New York market shows this week.
But with these trends popular for the past several seasons, stores were forced to scour the aisles at Project, MRket, Capsule and the other trade shows for their latest incarnations.
“There’s not a lot of trend this season,” said Dan Farrington, general merchandise manager of men’s wear for Mitchells Family of Stores. “There’s still some room to grow with the fit change, but that’s leveling out now.”
As a result, he was searching for “special items, add-on luxury pieces to round out our offering.” Sweaters, outerwear and soft jersey jackets, along with “cool denim,” were the most intriguing, he said. “But there’s a lot of sameness. Everybody has zip sweaters and soft jackets, so for us, it’s about the details.” Accessories also are an area of opportunity, Farrington said, pointing to caps, scarves and leather goods.
He noted that his company benefited from a blast of business at the end of the holiday season, and he’s expecting single-digit growth for this year. “If we’re smart and have good product, that’s what we’re looking at,” said Farrington.
Craig DeLongy of the John Craig men’s stores in Winter Park, Fla., said he was “blown away by the creative courage” of European men and hopes to bring a bit of that to his customer. “We have to teach men how to dress,” he said.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast