FLORENCE — Accessories and fledgling apparel lines took center stage at Pitti W, the women’s wear trade show that showcases capsule and pre-collections.
Turnout remained flat, with 4,400 visitors attending the exhibition, which showcased 80 brands at a pavilion on via Valfonda.
Gherardini, considered the oldest existing handbag brand in Italy, celebrated its 125th anniversary with a static exhibition featuring archive styles, some of which had been reworked for fall, such as the Ghe bag, a Seventies style done in crocodile, calf leather and lamb’s fur. The classic model, with a distinctive double-barrel fastening, was just one of many styles aimed at reinvigorating the brand. Lorenzo Braccialini, who bought Gherardini three years ago, said his focus is to refresh the brand and bolster the label’s existing 10 signature stores.
“We plan to open 20 boutiques in China within five years,” he said. “By the end of this year, we hope to sign licenses for clothing and shoes, too.”
New at Kartell were the demi-sofa boots. Seemingly inspired by Pierre Cardin, the molded rubber ankle boots have a futuristic wedge heel and were showcased in black, gray and indigo blue. At a flanking stand, Henry Beguelin offered its vintage take on boots and suede coats with shearling collars in earth tones.
Italian shoe brand Muse unveiled its debut line of Sixties-inspired printed ponyskin moccasins and leather slip-ons with wool linings. Retail prices start from around 200 euros, or $270.
Highlights at Italian hat brand Lika, which next season aims to enter the U.S., included felt cloche-style hats inspired by Twenties haircuts, headbands with soft glittery bows and lace-lined trilbys that made a nod toward veiled hats from the Thirties.
Meanwhile, young designers boosted the fair’s offering with capsule apparel collections.
Italian designer Mauro Gasperi unveiled a line of functional outerwear, knits and lightweight jersey dresses, along with fine mohair sweaters in camel and black softening tailoring separates like electric blue shirts and gray fitted pants.
In only its second season, new dress brand 241 unveiled a collection of 40 printed jersey styles inspired by vintage scarves. The label is owned by the Crespi fabric company, and all the dresses are produced from its textiles. Retail prices start from around 100 euros, or $135.
New Italian label Jan D’Arc unveiled its capsule collection of seven military-inspired coats designed by young designer Ben Almagor. Cotton styles feature frayed cuffs and seams, while wool jackets are accessorized with silver chains and military regalia.
Sophia Kokosalaki’s former design assistant, Giuseppe Fanelli, introduced his line, dubbed Unravel, offering silk tulle dresses in dusty tones that will retail from 150 euros, or about $200.
Underwear brand Les Maçons Danseurs launched a line of men’s innerwear basics, retailing at 20 euros, or around $26.
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye