Preshow, Phillip Lim called attention to his models’ hairdos — mostlydown with a tight knot on top. The inspiration came from gangs, hesaid, both the Yakuza and its shogun-style hair as well as Latin gangs.Maybe that’s where the models’ tough, no-nonsense demeanor came from,not to mention the show notes’ enigmatic opening quote: “A loiteringpresence.” This was Lim working a harder message — one rooted in urbanestrength. The gang influence appeared most literal in the tribal and ArtNouveau-like illustrations (riffing on Yakuza tattoos) on croppedponchos and tent dresses, as well as the collection’s signature pantwith demonstrative folds running down the front — Lim’s take, he said,on how Latin gang members buy pants a few sizes too big and then foldthem over.


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