Who says elegance can’t have a youthful spin? “I want to push the idea that elegance doesn’t have to mean mature,” said Lim, preshow, adding that the runway sculptures were actually enlarged versions of mouldings in his bedroom. So out the girls came, winding through the Noguchi-like garden, in an utterly chic and fresh bourgeois way. Here, Lim took a reductive approach. He put a simple pullover over a neatly collared halter and then paired that with an apron-paneled skirt.
The overlapping geometry, repeated throughout, felt chicly layered, not labored. Shapes were structured and trim, as in the spare jacquard jackets and the shift with sheer sleeves, while the palette stuck to a subdued medley of camels, blushes, tans and taupes, with pops of baby blues and coppers for contrast. Rear views offered more moments of intrigue. For instance: the lambskin-sequined tunic, which was completely sheer from behind. And in observing the collection’s pared-down mood, Lim kept the embellishments to a minimum. There was none of his usual jewelry, just a sprinkling of rhinestone embroidery and lacelike leathers, made into pocket squares or tassels.
It was a beautiful, well-focused outing, perhaps because Lim finally felt he identified his girl. “She’s the female version of the dandy, the dandie-lion,” Lim remarked. “Just as the dandy brought color to his flat world, today, in a loud world, my girl brings a subtle eccentricity and strength.”