Futurism — a theme core to the Alexander McQueen aesthetic over theyears. Toward the end of his life, the house founder worked the topic toa dark conclusion: man’s abuse of his environment would lead ultimatelyto a (highly romanticized) reversal of the evolutionary process. In abold statement of stewardship of the house, for fall Sarah Burtontackled the same theme and arrived at a very different place. “It’sfuturism with softness, not cold futurism,” she said in a preview. Inher view, man and nature are not at odds. “It’s looking forward in acompletely positive way.”
Burton expressed her viewpoint in acollection all about lightness with a core of power — and the emotionthat makes McQueen McQueen. Her futuristic princesses may wear“exploded” silhouettes in pristine white jacquards or enormous froths ofpink feathers, but they hide behind wide, sleek visors through whichthey both see and are shielded from the world.
Story-telling?Most definitely. But fashion needs stories and wonder and provocation,just as, ultimately, fashion brands need something to sell. The latterwas nowhere in sight on Burton’s runway. But anyone doubting heraffinity for the essential declination from fantastical show pieces tothe stuff of ultrachic viability — in case the Kate Middleton sightingsaren’t enough — should visit the showroom. There, in shades of softpinks and grays along with black, a knockout commercial collectionconnected back with savvy elegance, while indeed pointing to a positivefuture ahead.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast