The haunting preshow score was the first clue that Alexander Wang wasgearing up for another thematic 180. Bye-bye, head-bopping club tracksas the cool kids roll in; hello, Bram Stoker-type instrumentals. And thefirst girl out was, indeed, as surprising as last season’s sportsouting: Natalia Vodianova in crisp tailored pinstripes working a vaguelyGothic vibe, with black tails of chiffon streaming down her backpack.
The inspiration began, actually, with Wall Street businesswomen andwhat Wang took to be their counterpoint: freewheeling gypsies. “It’sabout women who make money and women who steal money,” he said. Eitherway, his girls looked as interesting as their point of reference. Thefirst half of the show focused on power-broker threads done in Wang’stopsy-turvy way, which resulted in traditional men’s wear garmentssexily reconstructed to the hilt. He sliced apart waistcoats and jacketsand inverted pants into shrugs; blazer details wound up on skirts.Lace-trimmed slipdresses, meanwhile, were cut from wool suiting. Thingstook a turn toward the complicated and tricky at times, but the beautyof his collection was its powerful layering motif — rendered herecontrolled and lean, not grunge-style circa Wang 2008. So pulled apartand in the showroom, there were plenty of terrific clothes for both hisdowntown tribe and uptown types. (We especially loved those wide-ribknits.)
By night, the designer turned Gothic romantic — here’swhere the gypsy came in — with loads of velvet and lace, ornate bijouxby Gaia Repossi and a palette of dark merlots, emeralds and mustards(“Old Italian Renaissance colors,” Wang said). Out came vampy ruchedfrocks, cape dresses and macramé tops, as well as a handful of velvetsmoking jackets and pants “pin-striped” with pearls — all pulsing with atough-chic vibe. As for the gotta-have-it tacky factor inherent inWang’s collections, this time he chose chenille, in the form of leggingsand tiny bralettes.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)