Alexander Wang's fall collection was terrific — we think. The clotheswere tough to see clearly since the set had less light than aneast-facing apartment at sundown. Would a little more wattage reallyhave killed the mood? No, but then, a dose of sartorial confusion wasjust the point. Wang continued the trompe l’oeil thread he started forpre-fall by taking, he said before the show, “a Surrealist approach tofabric manipulation. The idea is a distorted perception of things youmight think are raincoats but are actually laminated tweeds.”
The notion provided a grainy backdrop — installed with cubic mirrors — for Wang’s high-octane sportswear machine, now capable of developingfrom scratch 90 percent of the materials used in his collections, afactoid the designer proudly disclosed backstage. A multitude of stiff,shiny treatments shone well on the limited palette of white, black and abit of oxblood, while amping up the stylistic tension. Lacquered merinowool tweeds, waxed suedes and shrink wrapped-jacquard knits were workedinto graphic silhouettes, his most defined and daring yet, particularlywhen it came to outerwear. The first look was a boxy, white lacqueredtweed raincoat with a round helmet of a hood. Under it, a fishnetturtleneck was pulled up over the model’s mouth — there was a lot ofthat. In fact, the mood of chic aggression recalled, but didn’treplicate, early Nineties Helmut Lang. Yet while edge is in the atoms atWang, he slipped in a moment or two that nudged toward minimalistbourgeois, for example, a shiny, crewneck sweater worn with a long,straight leather skirt that wrapped in the front, creating a generousslit.
At the bottom of the show notes, which ended with look31, the instructive “Please stay seated...” was printed. Most peoplewere banking on some kind of live performance, but after the models tooktheir final walk, the lights changed and out came a more elite and(excuse the term) elder pack of models, including Shalom Harlow,Karolina Kurkova and Gisele Bündchen as the finale. The looks they worewere in the same vein as the previous 31 but with less shine, morerefinement and more tailoring, perhaps to signal Wang’s correctconviction that, hip as they are, his clothes do indeed have range.After a lap, each girl took her place facing one of the mirrors at closerange. Supermodels looking in the mirror...there’s probably a surrealmessage there.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)