The fashion formula at Alexander Wang has always been to subvert the classic, first knits and, now, sportswear. And put the emphasis on the “sports” — football, to be exact — as Wang tackled that theme enthusiastically, from the runway opener (blinding white lights and marching-band beats) to Varsity jackets and delightful pigskin-shaped clutches. Even the thick stitching and lacing on structured sweatshirts and leather HotPants nodded to the Gridiron game, done old-school style à la ‘Leatherheads.’ But the athleticism didn’t stop there; he also quoted baseball, rugby and fencing uniforms, and included ample references to collegiate prepster. (There was khaki galore, which Wang generously spliced with fleece or leather.)


But Americana has edge a-plenty. Picture the wholesome girl-next-door gone bad. “It’s that naughty schoolgirl,” said Wang, preshow. “I was thinking of perverseness and the word perve.” Thus, a khaki skirt comes with a sweeping belly-button-baring cutout and the trusty college pullover, reconstructed with a corset. Wang’s also forging a statement with those backless gym socks: Calves, the new erogenous zone. And the best part is his charmingly wicked take on American sportswear offered plenty of viable, wearable clothes, too — sheer pants and boy-briefs as bottoms, notwithstanding — while showing his more polished and grown-up side, a fact of which he’s consummately aware. “Last season, I pushed myself to the maximum as people know me,” he remarked. “I’m turning a new chapter now.”

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