Alexander Wang has never been shy about his love for the Nineties;its gritty black-and-white minimalism, street attitude, supermodels, anddefinitely its music scene have been a major influence on hisaesthetic, and were again for spring.

It was written all overit, quite literally. We’re talking about logomania. “I grew up in theNineties when everything was about blatant advertising,” said Wangduring a preview. “So I said, ‘How do we take that and do it in ourway?’” By using his own name, for starters.

He worked it intolaser-cut leather jumpers and slipdresses cut out of skinny leatherstrips sewn together vertically. It blared from the thick elasticwaistbands of cutout dresses, and blended subtly into tonalhoundstooth-inspired patterns on crisp shirts. Handled with equal partsirony and sophistication (the latter most evident in delicate whitelasered lace tops), Wang pulled the logo thing off, backing up theaudacity with serious design.

There was precision, techniqueand fabric development to everything, none of which he took tooseriously, a point crucial to his cause.

“I wanted to dosomething fun,” said Wang. “Something with wit, with humor.” Adding pinkto his typically stark palette was one great way of injecting hislineup with a playful sexiness. There were pink leather bags, shiny pinkcartoon Mary Janes and excellent riffs on classic pink (and baby blue)men’s shirting, cut into pleated miniskirts and spare tops that wereplain in front and open in the back with a tease of flesh. There wasalso a big homage to Nineties hip-hop style in the denim-inspiredjackets and pants that borethe bells and whistles of designerfinishings, as well as the white contrast stitching that harkened backto the jeans of that time.

Just before the show started, a fewAaliyah songs played on the soundtrack. A quick Google Image search ofthe doomed R&B star produces photos from a Tommy Hilfiger ad inwhich she’s wearing a bandeau top, and jeans belted low on her hips toshow the men’s boxer briefs she has on underneath — every itememblazoned with Tommy logos. Wang incorporated all of these elementsinto his look in an updated, authentic way and made it fun. He can savethe more serious stuff for Balenciaga.

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