“Nonchalance” was Joseph Altuzarra’s buzzword for fall. A 1994 Annie Leibovitz photo of a tousled-looking Kate Moss next to an equally unkept Johnny Depp, meanwhile, provided its inspirational anchor. Do the math: Altuzarra is vying for a Nineties ease by way of Seattle. The designer served up some loose, T-shirt-like argyles, rendered at times patchwork-style; crinkly, almost seersucker-like plaids on sexy, slack dresses, and numerous frayed and raw edges from start to finish. After last season’s sleek precision, Altuzarra came elegantly undone — without losing any of that serious street cred. It made for a spectacular collection, ultrasophisticated yet edgy and cool.
There were plenty of wonderfully wearable clothes to boot: the patterned pullovers, sturdy tweed trenches, as well as tweed- and plaid-printed jeans, which were the result of a collaboration with Current/Elliott. And as with other designers this season, Altuzarra included a standout outerwear statement: beefed-up parkas with wide, cozy hoods lined in plush fur. But, core to the designer, there simmered a sensuality beneath in the form of sheer tops and dresses, and skirts slit high with wayward straps that seemed to hint at both sporty and slight bondage. And Oscar alert! Altuzarra whipped some enchanting, spangled T-shirt dresses, spliced with arty swathes of fabric.
On the emerging trend front, he did his part with a parade of fluffy, fur-covered heels.