Count on Anna Sui to lighten the mood with a rollicking, romantic collection inspired by the gaslight palette and art house aura of Toulouse-Lautrec paintings. “I was reading Proust, and got really into turn-of-the-century France, the colors and bohemian spirit of that era,” Sui explained, referencing the golden yellows, smoky blues and shots of pink that covered her trademark silk hippie dresses and velvet jackets. This was Sui at her best, piling cardigans on print dresses (tulips, paisley, houndstooth, ikat), while taffeta and chiffon dresses were topped with jackets trimmed in feather and satin — a festive mix that never felt overwrought. Of note was the fine embroidery — floral stitching on rock ’n’ roll coats and dresses with beaded trim — that showed Sui can craft snappy contemporary pieces that don’t scrimp on detail. Merci, madame.

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