Alexander Wang said his approach to fall was about introducing aknitwear vocabulary to Balenciaga. “It’s something I felt was never verymuch present in the research that I was doing, and since I started inknitwear, I felt it was an appropriate starting point,” he explainedduring a preview.” Perhaps so, and within that framework, Wang proposedsome interesting motifs. But more than anything else, the collection heshowed on Wednesday morning felt steeped in archival concepts — lessthose of the house’s founder than its most recent former designer,Nicolas Ghesquière.

Here, the overall look and silhouette — strong, rounded shoulder;architectural arcs and folds; superslim pants, all delivered with avaguely futuristic feeling heightened by details such as ample zippers —drew a fairly straight line back to the silhouette that becamesynonymous with Ghesquière’s Balenciaga, which itself drew from thefounder’s sharp concepts of cut and construction. Many have minedGhesquière, a great designer. But this collection indicated that Wang’scomplete creative ownership of the label remains a work in progress,even if the two designers share a cool, street-aware sensibility. Thatsaid, the lineup looked good, with plenty to like and for women to buy,and Wang introduced numerous fresh ideas.

load comments
blog comments powered by Disqus