Alexander Wang said his approach to fall was about introducing aknitwear vocabulary to Balenciaga. “It’s something I felt was never verymuch present in the research that I was doing, and since I started inknitwear, I felt it was an appropriate starting point,” he explainedduring a preview.” Perhaps so, and within that framework, Wang proposedsome interesting motifs. But more than anything else, the collection heshowed on Wednesday morning felt steeped in archival concepts — lessthose of the house’s founder than its most recent former designer,Nicolas Ghesquière.


Here, the overall look and silhouette — strong, rounded shoulder;architectural arcs and folds; superslim pants, all delivered with avaguely futuristic feeling heightened by details such as ample zippers —drew a fairly straight line back to the silhouette that becamesynonymous with Ghesquière’s Balenciaga, which itself drew from thefounder’s sharp concepts of cut and construction. Many have minedGhesquière, a great designer. But this collection indicated that Wang’scomplete creative ownership of the label remains a work in progress,even if the two designers share a cool, street-aware sensibility. Thatsaid, the lineup looked good, with plenty to like and for women to buy,and Wang introduced numerous fresh ideas.

To access this article, click here to subscribe or to log in.

To Read the Full Article
SUBSCRIBE NOW

Tap into our Global Network

Of Industry Leaders and Designers

load comments
blog comments powered by Disqus