Adieu, clunky officewear! Bonjour, accessible high chic!
NicolasGhesquière resides in the more thoughtful reaches of the fashionlandscape. That’s not to say he’s a designer of intellectual fashion (inthe old days of WWD, that meant clothes for insiders that real peoplewould hate) or that most designers work purely on instinct. Only thatGhesquière seems to ponder more than most. Or maybe he’s just more intodiscussing the nitty-gritty than most, talking past his thematicreferences to the intricate details of construction, willing to explainthe exact purpose for this seam or that dart vis-à-vis the shape of thegarment.
The fact that his knockout spring collection, thoughcomplicated in terms of cut and fabric development, looked moreobviously accessible — simple, to use his own (inaccurate) word — thanhis fall lineup, with its cumbersome sweater shapes, could be mereseasonal fashion trope. More likely, it was the result of adetermination to train the house codes — both his own and the founder’s —onto clothes that will beckon from the retail hanger,“Try me; I’msexy!” That Ghesquière did so exquisitely while playing to the theme ofantiquity, via Cocteau’s “Testament d’Orphée” with a soupçon of thesculptor Janine Janet (she worked on the film and moonlighted as theRhoda Morgenstern of her day, doing major pieces for Balenciaga’s andothers’ windows), while incorporating specific structural conceits fromthe archives, speaks to Ghesquière’s brilliance.
“An evocationof mythological drama,” Ghesquière said during a preview. He opened witha bright white bra top over slim black pants, sans vulgarity. He thenmoved into an exploration of static motion; with their voluptuousruffled cascades, his black-and-white evening beauties combined thesensuality of skin-baring movement with the strength of substantialstructure delivered in a sturdy silk blend bonded to toile. Togas lookedlike hanky-hemmed minis but were actually shorts. Tailoring camemasculine — light-toned, strong-shouldered pantsuits — and feminine: aterrific modernist take on chichi in what looked like tweeds but wereactually multilayered embroideries. Another remarkable fabric: colorful,leafy guipure embroidered with a vinelike motif; from even a shortdistance, one might mistake it for leather. It was all intensely worked,yet with the end result of a fabulous lightness that relinquished noneof the strength of the Balenciaga woman — accessible high chic of thehighest order.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)