Adieu, clunky officewear! Bonjour, accessible high chic!
NicolasGhesquière resides in the more thoughtful reaches of the fashionlandscape. That’s not to say he’s a designer of intellectual fashion (inthe old days of WWD, that meant clothes for insiders that real peoplewould hate) or that most designers work purely on instinct. Only thatGhesquière seems to ponder more than most. Or maybe he’s just more intodiscussing the nitty-gritty than most, talking past his thematicreferences to the intricate details of construction, willing to explainthe exact purpose for this seam or that dart vis-à-vis the shape of thegarment.
The fact that his knockout spring collection, thoughcomplicated in terms of cut and fabric development, looked moreobviously accessible — simple, to use his own (inaccurate) word — thanhis fall lineup, with its cumbersome sweater shapes, could be mereseasonal fashion trope. More likely, it was the result of adetermination to train the house codes — both his own and the founder’s —onto clothes that will beckon from the retail hanger,“Try me; I’msexy!” That Ghesquière did so exquisitely while playing to the theme ofantiquity, via Cocteau’s “Testament d’Orphée” with a soupçon of thesculptor Janine Janet (she worked on the film and moonlighted as theRhoda Morgenstern of her day, doing major pieces for Balenciaga’s andothers’ windows), while incorporating specific structural conceits fromthe archives, speaks to Ghesquière’s brilliance.
“An evocationof mythological drama,” Ghesquière said during a preview. He opened witha bright white bra top over slim black pants, sans vulgarity. He thenmoved into an exploration of static motion; with their voluptuousruffled cascades, his black-and-white evening beauties combined thesensuality of skin-baring movement with the strength of substantialstructure delivered in a sturdy silk blend bonded to toile. Togas lookedlike hanky-hemmed minis but were actually shorts. Tailoring camemasculine — light-toned, strong-shouldered pantsuits — and feminine: aterrific modernist take on chichi in what looked like tweeds but wereactually multilayered embroideries. Another remarkable fabric: colorful,leafy guipure embroidered with a vinelike motif; from even a shortdistance, one might mistake it for leather. It was all intensely worked,yet with the end result of a fabulous lightness that relinquished noneof the strength of the Balenciaga woman — accessible high chic of thehighest order.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews