In just a few seasons, Olivier Rousteing has demonstrated a tendencyfor ultrasexy silhouettes. He continued the notion into spring with anearly-Nineties play via bold patterns and exaggerated shapes,particularly with strong shoulders. His version of the look, however,was rendered with a heavy hand and an aggressive sexuality that oftenwent over the top.

Backstage before the show, Rousteing said he was going for a “Latin sensuality,” citing Cuba and singer Sade among inspirations.

Whilethere is no denying that the young designer’s workmanship wasexquisite, i.e. the crystal beading on jackets and the elaborate basketweaves for minidresses, it often left heads spinning.

Rousteingamped up the volume for many looks. Some, like the boxy jackets anddresses, had an awkward fit. Then there was the recurring harlequinmotif, sometimes bedazzled in crystals. It had limited range, unless awoman is thinking of auditioning for the Ringling Bros. Even then, thejob’s not in the bag.

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