Only in the spectacularly conspicuous world of Balmain couldbaby-blue quilted leather trousers with giant gold buttons and amatching, pearl-studded blouse qualify as restrained. That was the truththis season at Olivier Rousteing’s spring show, where he continued tocarry the torch for hyperluxed nostalgia. This should have surprised noone who was paying attention during resort, when Rousteing introducedthe look that revolved around bomber jackets, denim and quilting galore,all of it subjected to elaborate embellishment and exaggeration for therunway.

Still a cartoonish send-up of early Nineties uberfashion beforeminimalism extinguished the excess — Chanel, Versace, Gaultier — in itsproliferation of the big gold buttons, blown-up houndstooth and gingham,and winks at suiting à la Coco, the collection was a vast improvementover Rousteing’s last show. Bomber jackets and sweatshirts are a staplethese days, with overalls on the comeback to relevancy; Rousteing’sversions flaunted impressive embellishments that were orange yettempered by sporty silhouettes.

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