Looking at the lean trousers and tailored jackets on her runway, one couldn’t help but conclude that Rachel Roy was thinking of female empowerment for spring. These were unabashedly strong, sexy clothes. The program notes cited Forties screen legends — think Marlene Dietrich in a killer pantsuit — as well as “Seventies chic,” the latter in the form of gorgeous, slinky bright blue and pink draped dresses. Yet it was Roy’s reference to a “return to the power suit” that resonated most. Her variations on this look were a bit softer than the originals; the trousers were slim but had movement, and the jackets — some in tweed, others in matte crepe — were fitted close to the body. Done in silver and black, these pieces packed punch without seeming retro.

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