Kicking off his second season, Bibhu Mohapatra steered away from strictly eveningwear toward what he called “softer, more wearable” clothes, proving he is not simply a gown guy. To wit, a black jersey dress with silver satin bands draped around the torso had an easy day-to-night look, and a cream trench, with short sleeves and cuffs in a blue-and-black print resembling X-ray film, was both practical and unconventional. Blouses — in jersey, linen and layers of organza — were just as versatile, many in that same pattern, which Mohapatra said was inspired by the X-rays from a recent physical that were lying around his studio. Inventive, very, and yet the lovely sportswear was still overshadowed by Mohapatra’s stunning cocktail dresses, from a butter yellow charmeuse and white lace number to a pale green one featuring layered embroidered squares that looked to be falling from the waist. Beautifully constructed and, yes, entirely wearable, the tight 24-look lineup left one wanting more.

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