Bottega Veneta is on a roll with a record year that broke through the $1 billion barrier, and Tomas Maier’s beautiful fall collection should keep up that momentum.

Maier continued to refine the Bottega Veneta woman, this time via adistinct Forties vibe demonstrated with a light hand and thoughtfulsense of precision, right down to the models’ hair, this through aSeventies lens — parted to the side and teased.

The all-blacklooks that started the show — the chic crepe coat with exposed seams,for instance, which Maier accessorized with a top-handle intrecciato bag— had a ladylike allure, with a hint of Lanvin.

The designermade a strong point with fabric constructions, manipulating flannels andwools into three-dimensional folds that were placed around the waist orapplied to architectural shoulders. It made for an intriguing view.Some of the more intricate constructions felt a bit cumbersome — a dresswith extended shoulders that read Bilbao’s Guggenheim is not foreveryone — but for the most part Maier showed a sense of control.

Throughout, he also kept his crafty proclivities in check. The artsiertouches came via colorful abstract embroidery, like the sleeveless whitewool flannel dress with a painterly motif in an uneven texture. Theembroideries carried into evening, when jazzy touches were added toshimmery dresses, sending a quietly glamorous message.


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