Tomas Maier has come a long way in terms of fashion finesse. Last season’s near romantic turn was a perfect example of a well-balanced collection. But spring started with a small step back. Show notes declared “a seemingly unmediated conversation between the body and the materials that cover it.” If that was so, the body had too little to say in the opening leather ensembles: clunky dirndl skirts and shells that, done in thick, brown, red and yellow skins, looked better suited to luggage — or accessories, which were as solid as ever here — than clothing. Things got progressively softer from there, as Maier cut and draped silk, cotton shantung and delicate blush-colored chiffon into effortless dresses, which provided a welcome counterpoint to the first looks. Just as constant was the rusty palette, which worked well with the structure on several variations of the shirtdress — also a stage for Maier’s way with tailored femininity. A belted, ruffled-down-the-front style, done in one of many faded prints, was one of the runway’s best and segued into a strong finish of gentle beribboned evening looks. By the last exit, a pale, parchment-colored dress that fell into dégradé ruffles, the memory of those leathers had begun to fade.

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