Christopher Bailey broke open a box of macaron colors for a sweetcollection with no hard edges — and miles of English lace. “I wanted itto be very gentle, very tender,” Bailey said after the show, citing aquest for “softness” as the starting point.

Nowhere was this moreevident than in Burberry’s cash-cow category — outerwear. Optionsranged from plump cardigan jackets the color of faded roses todouble-face Scottish cashmere or suede coats as languid as bathrobes —not forgetting lilac or mint lace coatdresses, some of them cinched withthick bejeweled belts or adorned here and there with sparklingrosettes. Bailey had employed a Victorian lace maker in Nottingham tointerpret archival motifs,which he also used for dresses and pencilskirts, the latter of which were often paired with skinny cardigans orpastel pullovers with gentle folds or bows at the back.

After a few seasons of studs, buckles, grommets and other hardware bits, Burberry’s metal-free look was a welcome change.

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