Could the long reign of the wan, scrawny male model — ignited morethan a decade ago by Hedi Slimane — be coming to an end? ItaloZucchelli, men’s creative director for Calvin Klein Collection, is doinghis part, casting an array of clean-cut, athletic models for hisbody-con collection. “It’s about skin,” he beamed backstage. “I like theidea of nonchalant elegance.” “Buff” was the name he gave to the fleshycolor that dominated the show, a repetitive ode to racer-back tank topsworn in duplicate and gauzy muscle T-shirts, plus an occasional helpingof strong-shouldered tailoring.

The powdery colors weresometimes striking, but then Zucchelli got mired in neon-colored PVC:zingy as side stripes on tapered pants; overheated on pullovers andblousons.

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