Some people have unconventional notions of falling in love. Backstagebefore his Calvin Klein Collection show, Francisco Costa described howhe was taken by a pivotal scene in “Ivan’s Childhood,” AndreiTarkovskiy’s 1962 Russian film in which two characters discover theirfeelings for one another in a bare forest setting (cue the birchwoodbenches, a first at Calvin). “When they are falling in love, it was allabout the coat,” Costa said. “That’s so fitting to the house becausethat’s how Calvin started.”
The Soviet influence translated into adistinct military bent, particularly with the first few suits anddresses. Worked in mostly black and navy, they were rendered in a faintplaid with vinyl inserts that added a patentlike surface sheen. Thebleak nature of the era was also reflected via some bulky coats. Costamade a powerful statement with lots of leather, accentuated shoulders ontailored pieces and several oversize silhouettes in stiffer fabrics. Hecountered this almost workmanlike sensibility with sexy bandeau topsthat were wrapped in the back. One version in a forest green was teamedwith voluminous pleated pants that read M.C. Hammer, yet they lookedsexy, never gimmicky.
Throughout, Costa played withinterpretations of plaid and grids. For one variation, he worked withmills to develop a weave technique that rendered perfect cutouts onflannels and wools. Other surface decoration was minimal. On a recenttrip to Japan, the designer found tiny hinges in a hardware store. Theyinspired adornments that were inserted graphically into a gridlikepattern on, for instance, a leather V-neck dress.
Even if thedrilling sounds on the soundtrack suggested otherwise, the overalleffect of the collection wasn’t raw, but ultrasophisticated.
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews