Francisco Costa has been making a strong case for fabric developmentin recent collections, a savvy and necessary direction for a designer ofhis level. Costa demonstrated this idea again for fall with a confidentcollection that was based almost entirely on knitwear rendered ininnovative and beautiful new ways. It was a bold departure thatdistorted the rules of minimalism with unexpected depth.

Backstage before the show, Costa cited the childhood portraits ofGerman photographer Loretta Lux as inspiration. The surreal imagesinformed the vibe of the pieces, from the comforting silhouettes to thesoft texture plays. The designer may think of the clothes as childlike,and indeed there was a charming naïveté here, but he channeled them withpolish and sophistication.

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