The dawn of a new decade. A raw new venue. A powerful sensibility.Marking his 10th anniversary designing Calvin Klein Collection,Francisco Costa didn’t revisit his greatest hits. Instead, he advancedhis stamp on the house with several different directions, the sum ofwhich provided an impressive take on Calvin Klein’s modernist codes.

Thestrength came in the diversity of Costa’s approach, from thearchitectural shapes — a clear comfort zone for the designer — to themasterful fabric manipulation, a dose of streety chic and even someunexpected (and daring) touches of razzle-dazzle that were anything butminimalist. But more on that later.

Backstage before the show,Costa explained that he was channeling a multitude of artisticinfluences, from Pablo Picasso and Jean-Michel Basquiat to GordonMatta-Clark, the American artist who was known for taking significantsections out of abandoned buildings or chopping them in half.

“Maybe it’s slightly out of the box for us,” Costa said. “I think we took a chance.” One that paid off.

Hestarted with a riff on complex cuts and draping, some with exposedfolds in contrast colors, like the slices of orange on a beigedouble-face canvas jacket and skirt. He also focused on the waist, oftenwith wide bands placed strategically below the torso, most notably onslouchy, denimlike painter’s pants that skimmed the floor.

Throughout,there were fascinating details, which required a closer viewing and maynot have benefited from the cool, vast space at Spring Studios. Costaworked transparency to substantial, not flimsy, effect: One oversizesilk and nylon T-shirt looked like mesh but felt as soft as cashmere,while a jacket that read tweed, with vibrant threads dangling from itshem, was actually a beautifully woven leather. As for a colorful stripedcoat, Costa pieced together fine snakeskin strips, an inventiveexpression of modern luxury.

That the customer who appreciatessuch luxury may also enjoy a little noise is something that must not gounnoticed by Costa, who had several gorgeous dresses that were finelyfrayed like fringe — the strongest iteration a black-and-white eveningdress with Twenties flapper flash. If they gave any indication ofCosta’s future direction at the house, that future is looking bright.

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