The dawn of a new decade. A raw new venue. A powerful sensibility.Marking his 10th anniversary designing Calvin Klein Collection,Francisco Costa didn’t revisit his greatest hits. Instead, he advancedhis stamp on the house with several different directions, the sum ofwhich provided an impressive take on Calvin Klein’s modernist codes.
Thestrength came in the diversity of Costa’s approach, from thearchitectural shapes — a clear comfort zone for the designer — to themasterful fabric manipulation, a dose of streety chic and even someunexpected (and daring) touches of razzle-dazzle that were anything butminimalist. But more on that later.
Backstage before the show,Costa explained that he was channeling a multitude of artisticinfluences, from Pablo Picasso and Jean-Michel Basquiat to GordonMatta-Clark, the American artist who was known for taking significantsections out of abandoned buildings or chopping them in half.
“Maybe it’s slightly out of the box for us,” Costa said. “I think we took a chance.” One that paid off.
Hestarted with a riff on complex cuts and draping, some with exposedfolds in contrast colors, like the slices of orange on a beigedouble-face canvas jacket and skirt. He also focused on the waist, oftenwith wide bands placed strategically below the torso, most notably onslouchy, denimlike painter’s pants that skimmed the floor.
Throughout,there were fascinating details, which required a closer viewing and maynot have benefited from the cool, vast space at Spring Studios. Costaworked transparency to substantial, not flimsy, effect: One oversizesilk and nylon T-shirt looked like mesh but felt as soft as cashmere,while a jacket that read tweed, with vibrant threads dangling from itshem, was actually a beautifully woven leather. As for a colorful stripedcoat, Costa pieced together fine snakeskin strips, an inventiveexpression of modern luxury.
That the customer who appreciatessuch luxury may also enjoy a little noise is something that must not gounnoticed by Costa, who had several gorgeous dresses that were finelyfrayed like fringe — the strongest iteration a black-and-white eveningdress with Twenties flapper flash. If they gave any indication ofCosta’s future direction at the house, that future is looking bright.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast