The dawn of a new decade. A raw new venue. A powerful sensibility.Marking his 10th anniversary designing Calvin Klein Collection,Francisco Costa didn’t revisit his greatest hits. Instead, he advancedhis stamp on the house with several different directions, the sum ofwhich provided an impressive take on Calvin Klein’s modernist codes.
Thestrength came in the diversity of Costa’s approach, from thearchitectural shapes — a clear comfort zone for the designer — to themasterful fabric manipulation, a dose of streety chic and even someunexpected (and daring) touches of razzle-dazzle that were anything butminimalist. But more on that later.
Backstage before the show,Costa explained that he was channeling a multitude of artisticinfluences, from Pablo Picasso and Jean-Michel Basquiat to GordonMatta-Clark, the American artist who was known for taking significantsections out of abandoned buildings or chopping them in half.
“Maybe it’s slightly out of the box for us,” Costa said. “I think we took a chance.” One that paid off.
Hestarted with a riff on complex cuts and draping, some with exposedfolds in contrast colors, like the slices of orange on a beigedouble-face canvas jacket and skirt. He also focused on the waist, oftenwith wide bands placed strategically below the torso, most notably onslouchy, denimlike painter’s pants that skimmed the floor.
Throughout,there were fascinating details, which required a closer viewing and maynot have benefited from the cool, vast space at Spring Studios. Costaworked transparency to substantial, not flimsy, effect: One oversizesilk and nylon T-shirt looked like mesh but felt as soft as cashmere,while a jacket that read tweed, with vibrant threads dangling from itshem, was actually a beautifully woven leather. As for a colorful stripedcoat, Costa pieced together fine snakeskin strips, an inventiveexpression of modern luxury.
That the customer who appreciatessuch luxury may also enjoy a little noise is something that must not gounnoticed by Costa, who had several gorgeous dresses that were finelyfrayed like fringe — the strongest iteration a black-and-white eveningdress with Twenties flapper flash. If they gave any indication ofCosta’s future direction at the house, that future is looking bright.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)