No doubt wanting to build on his stellar spring collection, which offered a bold yet buoyantly light take on graphic futurism, for fall Francisco Costa chose to explore the darker side of the same architectural school. And certainly there’s much to be said for his determined, confident approach — these are clothes for women of presence.

Costa started out strong, with a crescent-hemmed silk and wool coat over a sheath. Next came a jacquard dress with the same arched hem, and then jackets and skirts in tone-on-tone compilations the designer referred to as “puzzle” pieces. Many looked chic, especially the trim suits and sheaths. But at some point as the lineup progressed, what began as stylish bravura turned ponderous, a combination of weighty, all-black fabrics and constructions that featured their share of tricks — flaps and folds secured with giant buttons; endless takes on those sloping hems. Costa lightened up a little with some ivory and black combinations, including a lovely paillette-embroidered lace dress and a shimmering painted velvet dégradé coat. And he offered a daring shot of color in a terrific acid yellow dress that looked both festive and fierce.

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