Artsy sportif — it’s a genre both difficult to pull off and savvy, especially right now, as fashion struggles with the notion of reconciling casual living with high-end chic. It’s the genre Francisco Costa has claimed for his own and continues to refine. The Calvin Klein collection Costa showed on Thursday was a strong effort based on the house’s spring 1994 collection, the one that introduced Kate Moss as house muse. “Calvin did all those layered T-shirts. It was sporty and relaxed,” Costa said the day before his show. “This is my take, for now.”

Unlike the last two seasons in which he displayed a futuristic bent, Costa’s spring “now” played into the natural trend that emerged this week. Thus, he crossed the ease of that early T-shirt-based collection with fabrics inspired by the basket work of artist Ferne Jacobs. He cut almost everything not from basket weaves, per se, but from highly textured fabrics with an innate rumple factor. A process called “needle punching” created the newfangled seersucker of a puff-sleeve dress; crushed pleats freshened an otherwise classic tank.

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