“Erotic. Feminine. Urban. Chic. High sophistication.” These are thewords Francisco Costa used to describe his spring lineup for CalvinKlein Collection. It made for an interesting exploration, especiallysince one of his key influences was the late Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy,one of Calvin Klein’s most famous employees. “She is very much a part ofthis house,” Costa said backstage before the show. “She had this reallycool vibe. All the Yohji and the Calvin.…There was an edge to her, theclothes never felt dull.”

Bessette-Kennedy’s fashion sensibility could be seen in thedesigner’s artful tailoring, one of the hallmarks of her style duringher brief moment in the public glare. He incorporated a more highlycharged sexual dimension via several dresses and separates featuringcone bras and bustier tops, some in plain view, some peeking out fromunder filmy layerings. Costa referred to such looks as “very pinup.”Perhaps so, but they made for an ultramodern variation, with no trace ofthe traditional retro connotation. He also juxtaposed solid andtransparent fabrics, including provocative, weblike moiré cages overstrapless sheaths.

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