Navy and black, a tried-and-true tonal pairing, was utterlycompelling at the opening of Carolina Herrera’s collection. She nailedit — a beautiful display of regal elegance subdued by color, which wasquite a commitment, too. The first dozen looks came in shades of deepindigo with black accents. Luxed-up fabrics, such as knits with featherand fur details, blurred the line between traditional day- andeveningwear, and had a modern flexibility. For example, a turtlenecksweater was sewn with broadtail details on the front and worn with anembroidered wool pencil skirt, and a wispy embroidered silk dress peakedout from under a cozy mélange knit coat.  

From there, Herrera broke the darkness, creating a divide in thecollection. Heavy-handed abstract prints by artist Joe Duke, many ofwhich were painted onto the fabrics, seemed to get lost in translationalong the way. More subtle yet effective were the tweaked proportions,specifically cropped tops worn over high-wasted bottoms. That minoradjustment updated Herrera’s signature polish and boosted hercross-generational appeal.

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