It’s astonishing what the right designer can do for a house. One year ago, Celine was as stale as week-old bread. Now, in the hands of Phoebe Philo, it’s the touchstone for modern sportswear, the influence of her first collection, shown in October, already obvious on the runways of the past month. And if Philo’s second outing for Celine, shown Sunday, was any indication, that potent point of view is the new house standard.
Philo took the language she had established for spring — clean classics, to put it broadly, defined by square but slim tailoring — and built it out into an exceptional, new example of minimalism.
It’s probably not a complete coincidence that the Tennis Club de Paris was the chosen venue. It’s the space Helmut Lang used upon his return to Paris from New York. And while the two designers share an eye for clean, even plain shapes, unlike Lang, Philo’s take is grounded in bourgeois staples, beginning with the colors — navy, camel, ivory and mossy green — and subtle equestrian details. A beautiful navy sheepskin coat had leather trim and a starched ivory collar. Leather patch pockets recurred on wool tunic dresses and coats, and a simple midlength A-line skirt was worn with an ivory tie-neck blouse and a leather belt with a big silver buckle, one of the few accessories. And with everything unfettered, there was nothing to distract from Philo’s clear vision.
Much was culled from tony classics, for sure, but cut with an edge that was precise and light. For all the talk about futurism in fashion, this collection felt new — and now.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)