It’s astonishing what the right designer can do for a house. One year ago, Celine was as stale as week-old bread. Now, in the hands of Phoebe Philo, it’s the touchstone for modern sportswear, the influence of her first collection, shown in October, already obvious on the runways of the past month. And if Philo’s second outing for Celine, shown Sunday, was any indication, that potent point of view is the new house standard.
Philo took the language she had established for spring — clean classics, to put it broadly, defined by square but slim tailoring — and built it out into an exceptional, new example of minimalism.
It’s probably not a complete coincidence that the Tennis Club de Paris was the chosen venue. It’s the space Helmut Lang used upon his return to Paris from New York. And while the two designers share an eye for clean, even plain shapes, unlike Lang, Philo’s take is grounded in bourgeois staples, beginning with the colors — navy, camel, ivory and mossy green — and subtle equestrian details. A beautiful navy sheepskin coat had leather trim and a starched ivory collar. Leather patch pockets recurred on wool tunic dresses and coats, and a simple midlength A-line skirt was worn with an ivory tie-neck blouse and a leather belt with a big silver buckle, one of the few accessories. And with everything unfettered, there was nothing to distract from Philo’s clear vision.
Much was culled from tony classics, for sure, but cut with an edge that was precise and light. For all the talk about futurism in fashion, this collection felt new — and now.
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)