The steady evolution of spare sportswear at Celine continues, where Phoebe Philo has yet to hit a snag. “It was all about the proportion,” said Philo backstage after the show. “Really working on a woman’s form.” A little misleading, perhaps, since, aside from drawing attention to the waist, these were not body conscious or sexy clothes, though they were very desirable.

The main look was a white, peplumed shirt worn over cropped pants with extra wide legs. Shirts and military jackets, the latter with broad sleeves, were done in the usual bonded materials, flat and precise, while the pants had more movement in brocade and silk. Distinctive separates, such as a color block leather shell and a tunic with a red V around the neckline, that can stand on their own are a major selling point of this collection.

It was well within the scope of what Philo’s been doing at the house, but it felt like she exercised the intellectual part of her creative brain more so than usual. The well-trained eye could detect a trace of Rei Kawakubo in the exaggerated cuts, like a boxy leather tunic cinched with a wide belt over ivory pants, and the range of terrific peplum shirts that were stiff and clinical in front with a panel of soft knife pleats in the back. It was a savvy manipulation of influence and not only because everything looked like it belonged totally to Philo, whose point of view is wearable and directional at the same time.

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