Fashion’s rush to sporty and lounge-y styles for spring could leave the businessman feeling high and dry. Dior Homme’s Kris Van Assche proposed a solution, parading linear yet loose shapes aimed at all kinds of Dior’s men, mashed up with cheerful nautical sportswear.
He opened the show with a trio of deep blue tuxedos, announcing the collection’s tailored focus and nautical theme. There were three principle suit shapes, described backstage as classic, straight and “fashion,” the latter boasting tapered pants and a cropped jacket that closed with a toggle. The straight-lined silhouette, neat and slightly boxy, prevailed in various guises: classic or shadow pinstripes, micro hound’s tooth or plain dove gray.
Scoop necked tank tops in bold sailor stripes, reminiscent of Victorian swimwear, were the third element of the suit, adding a graphic punch and a youthful edge.
There were horizontal lines on dress shirts, too, and handwritten script — lifted from a Fifties letter penned by Christian Dior himself — that approximated stripes or waves. The latter ticked a trend box — the return to logos — in a discreet and classy way.
A secondary street-art theme, expressed as crayon squiggles on pale denim and white shirts seemed a forgettable side track.
Van Assche did a naval collection only two years ago, but it’s clear he had more to say. Sailing coats in waxed yellow jersey or papery navy leather were immaculate and chic enough to wear on Wall Street.