Fashion’s rush to sporty and lounge-y styles for spring could leavethe businessman feeling high and dry. Dior Homme’s Kris Van Asscheproposed a solution, parading linear yet loose shapes aimed at all kindsof Dior’s men, mashed up with cheerful nautical sportswear.

Heopened the show with a trio of deep blue tuxedos, announcing thecollection's tailored focus and nautical theme. There were threeprinciple suit shapes, described backstage as classic, straight and“fashion,” the latter boasting tapered pants and a cropped jacket thatclosed with a toggle. The straight-lined silhouette, neat and slightlyboxy, prevailed in various guises: classic or shadow pinstripes, microhound’s tooth or plain dove gray.

Scoop necked tank tops inbold sailor stripes, reminiscent of Victorian swimwear, were the thirdelement of the suit, adding a graphic punch and a youthful edge.

There were horizontal lines on dress shirts, too, and handwrittenscript — lifted from a Fifties letter penned by Christian Dior himself —that approximated stripes or waves. The latter ticked a trend box — thereturn to logos — in a discreet and classy way.

A secondary street-art theme, expressed as crayon squiggles on pale denim and white shirts seemed a forgettable side track.

Van Assche did a naval collection only two years ago, but it’s clear hehad more to say. Sailing coats in waxed yellow jersey or papery navyleather were immaculate and chic enough to wear on Wall Street.

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