“Romantic Baroque.” That was the ruse for Domenico Dolce and StefanoGabbana’s collection, a motif rich with material from the island theyadore, Sicily. The designers established the tone with an elaborateinstallation — their runway under the glow of 16 massive two-tierchandeliers, wrapped in flowers and festooned. The girls emerged from ahuge gilded picture frame, also done up with flowers.
Moody andfanciful, the set sent the message that here would be no minimalistmusings. But then, who would expect that from Dolce and Gabbana? Whichhas become a problem. Not that the designers don’t do minimal, but thatthey have ceased to unsettle our expectations. “We’re always asked to beourselves,” Dolce said before the show. “The challenge is to remaintrue to Dolce & Gabbana while renewing ourselves, so we work onmaterials and research.”
This season radiated the benefits ofthat very impressive work. Heavy gold embroideries on black, inspired byornately carved frames, were the principal motif. Exquisitely rendered,they appeared on everything from outerwear (coats, jackets and capes,one of which appeared to weigh more than the model who wore it) to thenecklines and waists of pretty dresses. On the lighter side, beautifulwhite laces and tulles were worked into dresses and blouses, and if theyspun a familiar romantic yarn, it was a lovely one. Otherwise,petit-point florals and dark cherub prints infused color.
Overall, the lineup played as costumey, not in itself a problem; thelong fashion season needs shots of grandeur and theater. And the showincluded beautiful clothes for the discerning shopper. The shortfall laywith the familiarity. Absolutely, Dolce and Gabbana must remainthemselves; to do otherwise is fashion suicide. But the fashion selfshouldn’t be content with redux. There are too many other selves outthere, some of whom dare to push their own envelopes.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews