“Romantic Baroque.” That was the ruse for Domenico Dolce and StefanoGabbana’s collection, a motif rich with material from the island theyadore, Sicily. The designers established the tone with an elaborateinstallation — their runway under the glow of 16 massive two-tierchandeliers, wrapped in flowers and festooned. The girls emerged from ahuge gilded picture frame, also done up with flowers.
Moody andfanciful, the set sent the message that here would be no minimalistmusings. But then, who would expect that from Dolce and Gabbana? Whichhas become a problem. Not that the designers don’t do minimal, but thatthey have ceased to unsettle our expectations. “We’re always asked to beourselves,” Dolce said before the show. “The challenge is to remaintrue to Dolce & Gabbana while renewing ourselves, so we work onmaterials and research.”
This season radiated the benefits ofthat very impressive work. Heavy gold embroideries on black, inspired byornately carved frames, were the principal motif. Exquisitely rendered,they appeared on everything from outerwear (coats, jackets and capes,one of which appeared to weigh more than the model who wore it) to thenecklines and waists of pretty dresses. On the lighter side, beautifulwhite laces and tulles were worked into dresses and blouses, and if theyspun a familiar romantic yarn, it was a lovely one. Otherwise,petit-point florals and dark cherub prints infused color.
Overall, the lineup played as costumey, not in itself a problem; thelong fashion season needs shots of grandeur and theater. And the showincluded beautiful clothes for the discerning shopper. The shortfall laywith the familiarity. Absolutely, Dolce and Gabbana must remainthemselves; to do otherwise is fashion suicide. But the fashion selfshouldn’t be content with redux. There are too many other selves outthere, some of whom dare to push their own envelopes.
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@badgalriri’s @fentybeauty launch in September was a massive success on social media, powering $72.9 million of earned media value, according to Tribe Dynamics. The brand’s foundation offering sparked conversations about diversity in beauty, launching the growth of emerging influencers and propelling the brand’s support on social media. Today, #fentybeauty won Launch of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📷: Chema Moya/EPE-EFE)
@marianna_hewitt has become one of the most influential content creators in the beauty space, with almost 800,000 Instagram followers and a newly launched skin care line called @SummerFridays. Today, she was awarded Influencer of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📸: @sophiachabbott )
As shopping behaviors evolve, the retail experience must follow. Head over to retail experts @colliersinternational’s Knowledge Leader series to read more about the shift in our shopping era. #colliersretail #lovecolliers
@prada opened a pop-up club, called Prada Double Club, in collaboration with German artist Cartsen Höller at @artbasel Miami. Last night, guests – including @youngparis, @ritaora and even Miuccia Prada herself – gathered in a former ice factory where the pop-up is housed for a performance from @wyclefjean. Go to WWD.com for full coverage on all the exhibits, parties and more at #ArtBaselMiami. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@louboutinworld and @disney are making magic once again, creating a set of shoe designs for the release of “Star Wars: The Last Jedi.” Louboutin designed a pair of shoes for each of the film’s four female leads: Rey (@daisyridrey), Vice Admiral Amilyn Holdo (@lauradern), Captain Phasma (Gwendoline Christie) and Rose Tico (@kellymarietran). The shoes will debut on Saturday at the L.A. premiere of the latest episode. #wwdfashion
Today at the #BeautyIncAwards 2017, WWD will be joined by beauty leaders from around the world as we honor this year's most innovative people, products, brands and places. Follow along here and on Twitter for live coverage from the exclusive event. #wwdsummits (📷: @elizaflorendo)
Exclusive: Beauty superinfluencer @marianna_hewitt is launching her first-ever skin care brand with her business partner @laurengores. Their new line Summer Fridays, which will be sold exclusively at summerfridays.com starting in January, is launching with just one product – a hydrating cream Jet Lag Mask. “We wanted to focus on one product that was amazing,” said Hewitt. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Michelin star-rated chef PJ Calapa marks his first solo endeavor with today’s opening of @scampinyc –– the new Southern Italian restaurant located in Manhattans’ Flatiron District. The upscale yet welcoming environment matches the menu, which includes two types of scampi: traditional Italian langoustines in butter and the Americanized version with shrimp over pasta 🍤 - pictured here. #wwdeye (📷: George Chinsee)