Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana consider themselves designers aswell as customer service professionals, who listen to what their clientswant. These days, that doesn’t include wearing what appeals just tomagazine stylists, something Dolce and Gabbana kept in mind last seasonwhile addressing the customer’s feminine wiles. And on Sunday, theirpractical focus fell on a woman’s masculine side with a stunningcollection rooted in “sartorialità,” or tailoring, Italian-style. “Likemy father used to make,” said Dolce, noting the lineup’s major attentionto detail. Every seam, every button, every sleeve and shoulderimpeccably finished. Gorgeously crafted jackets, a double-breastedclassic, a cropped style chopped off above the waist and a subtlehourglass shape opened the show. And the dramatic finale offered 70 moreexamples of the finest tailoring Italy has to offer. Out marched thelegion of models, each in a different black jacket — no pants todistract from the purity of their design. Thick but refined knits onstraight skirts and little black jackets lined in pretty blush silkshowed a soft but still pristine side to suiting. Such perfection isonly achieved the old-fashioned way, through the dedication and highlyskilled hands of the atelier, to whom the designers paid tribute with avideo of the team hard at work in their white lab coats that screenedbefore the show and the finale.


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