No one loves a good duality tale more than Donna Karan. Masculine-feminine, the natural and urban worlds, her work is an ongoing study of juxtaposition. This time out, Karan worked a singular direction, but here contrasted it against the one she showed for spring. She continued last season’s pale palette, now skewed pearl gray and taupe rather than ivory-beige. But while that collection was inspired by nature’s neutral hues, this one was all about urban allure. And though it would have benefited from some diversity, it was beautiful indeed.
Karan was at her most intricate in terms of cut, decorating the clothes not with extraneous stuff but with elegant drapes and folds. One dress was tucked on a soft diagonal and wrapped in front; another fell into a gently haphazard cowl. The jacket of a slim suit had sleeves that tapered from wide, puffed shoulders. She also developed a rippled bow bodice for a sheer blouse which she paired with a tweed skirt, as well as for two gorgeous gowns. The collection’s other big hit: the shearlings. They were spectacular, in jackets, a coat and a pair of divine stoles.
Often the looks were accessorized with flowing chiffon headscarves worn with a mysterious air of the runway variety. Not so the exquisite pearl necklaces (the collection was called “Pearls of Wisdom”) — what woman wouldn’t love them? As for those long gloves with deep, dramatic fur cuffs, they could prove to be the glam accessory of the season.