The CFDA 50th anniversary exhibit at FIT features a look from DonnaKaran’s fall 1985 debut. It stands in all its black jersey-gold hardwareglory as a reminder of what women have always wanted from the designer:chic urbanity. Kudos to Karan for returning to that realm this fall,with a high-glam ode to, call her what you will, the sexy power woman orthe cerebral bombshell.

The collection centered on a reed-thin silhouette and tailoringgalore, often in pinstripes. Karan incorporated her signature asymmetricmaneuvers — half-collars, side-draping, off-kilter slits — and dared torevive an audacious shoulder. She finished everything off with fabulous“cubist” (they had their own asymmetry going on) fedoras by StephenJones, who just may prove one of the biggest stars of the New Yorkseason. Evening looked plenty fresh — lean, constructed gowns and amiraculous mélange of felted jersey and sequins on something sheer.

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