Liquid assets — Donna Karan has plenty of those and wants to share them with her customers, in lovely, languid clothes that pour over the body. (As for that other kind of liquid asset Karan knows a thing or two about, her gals are on their own.) “It’s not the time for an aggressive feeling for clothes,” she said before her show on Friday. The approach made for a beautiful signature collection, albeit one that grew a tad repetitive, in which Karan banished all hard edges and obvious structure.
The collection centered on the dress, all draped and leggy in the designer’s beloved jersey, colored in soothing earth and water tones, which, her program notes claimed, “naturally seduce and soothe the soul.” Perhaps so, but these beauties are bound to incite some corporeal goings-on as well, as they created some of the week’s steamiest moments. One side-draped number opened up to there to reveal what appeared to be a racy swimsuit; several others knotted or swirled just so high on the thigh. While most of these were not otherwise adorned — with all that body language going on they didn’t need anything superfluous — Karan occasionally added decoration in a collar of big, flat discs or artsy mirror embroideries.
For all the feminine wiles thus on display, Karan still worked in a his-for-her angle in softened safari jackets and a gussied-up leather vest over a wrap top and short satin skirt. But evening was a siren song, with new versions of the draped charmeuse gowns Karan does to perfection and a pair of tulle beauties embroidered in shattered crystal.