Was anyone surprised to read that Donna Karan was “embracing nature” this season, as her program proclaimed? Water, wind, rocks — the elements are always on her mind. What’s remarkable is her ability to constantly reimagine them as she did for spring — a true natural beauty.
The set, a sand-covered runway and canyonlike backdrop out from which appeared Karlie Kloss, stunning in a slinky, silk slipdress and short stretch jacket crinkled to deliberate imperfection, a prime example of the collection’s most important look. From there came a legion of desert queens, each one cast in a soft, tonal nude or neutral. The silhouette was long and lean with loads of filmy dresses and skirts cut on the bias for a delicate sensuality. Some of the best were for day — a very sexy day — such as shirtdresses, both casually seductive with plunging necklines, one sleeveless in crushed cupro, the other, a robe of airy silk chiffon.
Though Karan’s world is typically one of yin and yang, each feminine wile checked by a masculine counterpoint, this time the vibe was all woman. Even the meatier, more structured pieces — mainly jackets and skirts done in crumpled, sculpted twill — were molded to accentuate the female form of which this was a celebration. It intensified for evening with more bias gowns, whose ruffled trims gave a nod to the Thirties. It was all gorgeous through and through.