The sun, the sand, the sea, the sky. As inspirations go, thiscollection could lead in many different directions. Donna Karan made itinto something otherworldly, and the results were breathtaking. Afterher play with men’s wear tailoring for fall, this was a romantic Donna, apure treat, with mesmerizing colors cold-dyed to feign nature.

Karanset the tone with the first few pieces: exquisite separates in mutedhues. These included several folded jackets over full skirts, and empiresilhouettes, such as the oyster linen and jersey dress and jacket thatopened the show. It was lovely, as was just about everything else thatfollowed. Throughout, Karan played with volume through construction. Afloating transparent georgette dress almost cascaded down from astricter jersey bralike top.

For evening, Karan draped severalgorgeous dresses; a seafoam embroidered and sequined gown drifted bylike a captivating underwater creature. It was elegantly rendered andfelt poetic, almost ethereal, but the collection’s dreamy nature onlyserved to mask Karan’s perfect sense of control. Almost every piece waselaborately constructed, draped, tiered and tweaked, but the overalleffect remained beautiful and feather-light.

Speaking offeathers, who needs them when shredded raffia can look so charming?

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