Last season, Dries Van Noten detoured from his signature visualopulence with a spectacular collection based on the classic white shirtthat was, by his standards, on the plain side.

Fall finds Van Noten in an unusual place, back in the land ofexotica, but with a collection that didn’t have the runway appeal ofspring. Perhaps that’s because for all of their overt visual gestures,the intricacies of these clothes require examination up close, at whichdistance they look exquisite.  

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