To paraphrase F. Scott Fitzgerald, it may be the test of a first-ratenervous system when a designer can plan two very different kinds ofshows — one runway, one museum — at the same time and set to open duringthe same week, while retaining the ability to function.
Halfwaythrough, Dries Van Noten is functioning just fine, thank you. The fallcollection he showed on Wednesday was audacious and practical in equalmeasure, making for powerful, chic-with-a-twist viewing. The ruse:Bridget Riley-inspired Op Art graphics and a potent, color-centricrave-culture intensity layered onto Van Noten’s hyper-focused clotheswith their unmistakable men’s wear dash.
“I wanted to do color, Iwanted to do fun, so we called it ‘Coutorama,’” Van Noten said during apreview. “It’s sharp lines of graphic motifs, it’s acids, it’s raves.”And contrasting the precision frenzy: glistening hand-painted silverflowers “to bring out the random feel. I wanted the human to comethrough.”
That said, one of Van Noten’s great strengths is hisability to control visually intense motifs; any apparent randomness isintentional, thought out and rendered meticulously; his swirls,overlapping triptych circles and broken-striped grids were applied withbravado executed oh-so-carefully. At times, he went for the contrast ofthe caustic-on-classic: an emblem of descending green and gray circlesfused to a plain, mannish coat; bright discs giving pop to tonyT-shirts. At other times, he opted for full-on visual shock value: apanel of circles, now in canary yellow and gray on a belted jacket infuchsia-and-gray swerved stripes, and bolder still, such graphics onfloral-print separates, their base pattern itself large-scale andvibrant. Undulating stripes were another interpretation, insilver-and-black for a skirt and coat and wide swaths of high-contrastsilk and sequins (blue and orange; maroon and blue) forloud-but-graceful godet skirts and dresses. As for the hand-pieces, theylent an artisanal touch to the demonstrative precision.
Throughout,Van Noten integrated athletic references — jackets and pants withzippers and parachute details that stood in contrast to the collection’smore obviously polished fare. Either way, he kept his proportionsample, right down to the primary accessories: big, still 3-D flowersperched on the shoulder with no small degree of drama.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty