To paraphrase F. Scott Fitzgerald, it may be the test of a first-ratenervous system when a designer can plan two very different kinds ofshows — one runway, one museum — at the same time and set to open duringthe same week, while retaining the ability to function.
Halfwaythrough, Dries Van Noten is functioning just fine, thank you. The fallcollection he showed on Wednesday was audacious and practical in equalmeasure, making for powerful, chic-with-a-twist viewing. The ruse:Bridget Riley-inspired Op Art graphics and a potent, color-centricrave-culture intensity layered onto Van Noten’s hyper-focused clotheswith their unmistakable men’s wear dash.
“I wanted to do color, Iwanted to do fun, so we called it ‘Coutorama,’” Van Noten said during apreview. “It’s sharp lines of graphic motifs, it’s acids, it’s raves.”And contrasting the precision frenzy: glistening hand-painted silverflowers “to bring out the random feel. I wanted the human to comethrough.”
That said, one of Van Noten’s great strengths is hisability to control visually intense motifs; any apparent randomness isintentional, thought out and rendered meticulously; his swirls,overlapping triptych circles and broken-striped grids were applied withbravado executed oh-so-carefully. At times, he went for the contrast ofthe caustic-on-classic: an emblem of descending green and gray circlesfused to a plain, mannish coat; bright discs giving pop to tonyT-shirts. At other times, he opted for full-on visual shock value: apanel of circles, now in canary yellow and gray on a belted jacket infuchsia-and-gray swerved stripes, and bolder still, such graphics onfloral-print separates, their base pattern itself large-scale andvibrant. Undulating stripes were another interpretation, insilver-and-black for a skirt and coat and wide swaths of high-contrastsilk and sequins (blue and orange; maroon and blue) forloud-but-graceful godet skirts and dresses. As for the hand-pieces, theylent an artisanal touch to the demonstrative precision.
Throughout,Van Noten integrated athletic references — jackets and pants withzippers and parachute details that stood in contrast to the collection’smore obviously polished fare. Either way, he kept his proportionsample, right down to the primary accessories: big, still 3-D flowersperched on the shoulder with no small degree of drama.
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)