To paraphrase F. Scott Fitzgerald, it may be the test of a first-ratenervous system when a designer can plan two very different kinds ofshows — one runway, one museum — at the same time and set to open duringthe same week, while retaining the ability to function.
Halfwaythrough, Dries Van Noten is functioning just fine, thank you. The fallcollection he showed on Wednesday was audacious and practical in equalmeasure, making for powerful, chic-with-a-twist viewing. The ruse:Bridget Riley-inspired Op Art graphics and a potent, color-centricrave-culture intensity layered onto Van Noten’s hyper-focused clotheswith their unmistakable men’s wear dash.
“I wanted to do color, Iwanted to do fun, so we called it ‘Coutorama,’” Van Noten said during apreview. “It’s sharp lines of graphic motifs, it’s acids, it’s raves.”And contrasting the precision frenzy: glistening hand-painted silverflowers “to bring out the random feel. I wanted the human to comethrough.”
That said, one of Van Noten’s great strengths is hisability to control visually intense motifs; any apparent randomness isintentional, thought out and rendered meticulously; his swirls,overlapping triptych circles and broken-striped grids were applied withbravado executed oh-so-carefully. At times, he went for the contrast ofthe caustic-on-classic: an emblem of descending green and gray circlesfused to a plain, mannish coat; bright discs giving pop to tonyT-shirts. At other times, he opted for full-on visual shock value: apanel of circles, now in canary yellow and gray on a belted jacket infuchsia-and-gray swerved stripes, and bolder still, such graphics onfloral-print separates, their base pattern itself large-scale andvibrant. Undulating stripes were another interpretation, insilver-and-black for a skirt and coat and wide swaths of high-contrastsilk and sequins (blue and orange; maroon and blue) forloud-but-graceful godet skirts and dresses. As for the hand-pieces, theylent an artisanal touch to the demonstrative precision.
Throughout,Van Noten integrated athletic references — jackets and pants withzippers and parachute details that stood in contrast to the collection’smore obviously polished fare. Either way, he kept his proportionsample, right down to the primary accessories: big, still 3-D flowersperched on the shoulder with no small degree of drama.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)