“Strong women. Some glamour is involved.” Were that written in a joblisting, who wouldn’t want in? In fact, the words are a statement ofpurpose from Dries Van Noten. Though spoken specifically about hisspring collection, they could serve as the designer’s permanent tagline. Van Noten is a master of au courant power dressing. His clothesradiate a kind of glamour that, for all their abundant bells andwhistles, telegraph a sense of comfort and psychological security.
Springwas a mélange of disparate elements brought into clear, fabulous focus.In advance of his exhibit in February at Les Arts Décoratifs, Van Notenwent into its archives for 19th-century jacquards — rich, opulentflorals — which he reproduced with glorious visual accuracy. He addedpilings of ruffles: pleated, swirled and tightly packed. He counteredthe grand romance of the former and girlishness of the latter withearthy tribal weaves, and then contrasted the intense decorative natureof all three against raw, utilitarian cottons and linens. A tiny starprint countered the scale of giant florals, and a barbed-wire print,their prettiness.
There were hints of the gypsy in billowingsleeves and full skirts (shades of Loulou de la Falaise) and of thechoreographer Fong Leng in the structured frou. The audaciousextravagance of it all might have turned decadent were Van Noten not astalwart believer in form following function.
Here were clothesthat work: the roomy jackets and pants with a hint of the Eighties; thetrenchcoat over white shirt and black pants, perfectly discreet save forthe flash of a dazzling gold vest; the sweaters which, whether finishedin a dense thicket of artisanal fringing or with a flamboyant, ruffledswath, were merely sweaters.
It was a spectacular fusion of reality with showmanship. Strong women. Some glamour. Endless fashion.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia