Constructivism. It’s powerful. It’s sharp. It’s provocative. And inKarl Lagerfeld’s hands, it made for a captivating spring collection forFendi, worked with an unexpected light touch that felt anything butfragile. It was terrific.

“Graphics inspired by the world ofinformatics,” proclaimed the show notes — though this was no lineup forcomputer geeks. Instead, Lagerfeld focused on textural play and preciselines, most evident in looks pieced together with contrast elements,i.e., soft dresses made of panels precisely mapped over each other in aspectrum of the same hue. The effect, while graphic, was ultrasoft andappeared as sophisticated colorblocking.

Lagerfeld worked hisfurs with the same ease, shearing minks in patterns against an organzabase for tops, skirts and fur gowns. The latter was an unusual take onevening but the designer delivered it with whimsy and ample chic. Dittothe great coats, especially the navy-and-brown mink shown with a bluebandeau and languid skirt. It may have been fur, but the look wasappropriately breezy for the season.

Silvia Venturini Fendi’saccessories played perfectly into the constructivist motif, withstructured bags worked in graphic patterns and fur charms dangling fromtop handles. The new jewelry collaboration with Delfina Delettrez Fendiparticularly dazzled with ultracool earrings that combined dashes offur, crystal and Delettrez Fendi’s signature eye motif. They might justbecome the house’s new good luck charm for spring.

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