On Monday, Giorgio Armani showed a strong collection to close a strong Milan season. (Which is not to say it couldn’t and shouldn’t be at least a day shorter. New York is too long due to too many shows of too little importance. Here, the first and last days had very little going on.)
There was plenty to see at Armani, which the designer dubbed “Easy Chic.” The refined tailoring provided the chic, he said before the show, with a flats-only approach for shoes delivering the ease. The clothes featured a strong men’s wear current, but rendered with a light hand; every ensemble was topped off by an audacious fedora, and vibrant orange and fuchsia ran throughout. He opened with sleek gray pants looks, as suits and in combination with tops in vibrant solids or graphic prints. He then moved on to his primary motif: light, even festive pieces over snappy man-tailored walking shorts. These proved the anchor for Armani’s diversified offerings, from ladylike jackets to fit-and-flare coats to a number of Bohemian furs — shearling, rabbit and faux. Skirts were cut for ease of movement, and to allow for sightings of the shorts worn beneath. The integration of numerous textures and weights kept everything interesting.
Evening swung sportif, as everything featured the shorts — Armani found a wavelength and stuck with it — whether with jackets or under dresses. Either way, the upper pieces were crystal-embroidered for a feeling both lavish and young. Except for the last look, a black, extravagantly beaded jumpsuit with a silver-embroidered zipper down the front. Only divas need apply.