Fashion leaves little time for revelry. So fresh off his triumphanttriptych at the Oscars, for which Giorgio Armani now famously dressedthree best-actress nominees — Jessica Chastain, Naomi Watts andQuvenzhané Wallis — it was back to business as usual, which on Mondaymeant the showing of his fall collection.
Armani’s attentionsclearly were not diverted by his Oscars responsibilities; this was aquite complicated, labor-intensive collection. Too much so at times,especially since its title, “Garçonne,” presaged a more relaxed,off-handed vibe. Instead, Armani seemed too focused on the self-imposedgrails of “avant-garde” and “calculated eccentricity” (descriptivescited in his program notes), which led to some heavy-handedness ofdesign and styling.
Getting past those, there were some terrificclothes. Armani opened with elegant, waist-conscious jackets ininteresting graphic patterns over languid velvet pants. He then moved ina sportier direction with short, loose jackets, these over low-slungtrousers. Both looked great. They were just the beginning, as along theway Armani sent out every shape of jacket imaginable and intenselytextured sweaters as well as jumpsuits, their tops cut like extra-widelapels; pants that unzipped down the sides for extra volume, and a fewlovely short dresses. He also did his part for Milan’s great coat seasonwith a double-faced black-and-blue topper and fluffier versions.
Forevening, he was both at his best and most confounding. His series ofblack looks started elegantly but got increasingly tricked out withexcesses such as a double-winged bodice on a dress and a stiff,suspended peplum over sparkly pants. Yet every now and then he exhaledand went for the ease of a lovely embroidered top and velvet skirt,including one with a black-and-white T-shirt aquiver with rows of beadedfringe. Such looks radiated an understated chic that sits at the coreof the Armani allure.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia