Let in the light. That was Giorgio Armani’s message for spring in a collection infused with a gentleness that did not diminish the power of the clothes. His woman, he said after the show, is “ethereal yet determined.”
The former quality showed up in his choice of fabrics — what wasn’t layers of opaque and transparent filminess was utterly fluid and moveable — Armani insisted on materials supple enough to realize the ease of motion he wanted to convey. “I fought with my team because I did not want any rigidity,” he said.
Armani succeeded in that endeavor, banning any suggestion of a hard-line or arch construction (save for a threesome of paging-Sally-Field hats). He opened with flaxen-toned separates — jackets, skirts, culottes — that moved gracefully with, and sometimes against, the body. Interest came in layering of textures and subtle patterns — tweeds, ottomans, soft florals — in seductive tonal combinations.
Armani introduced color as he moved from sportswear to dressier fare. Here, he focused on soothing blues and purples with shots of pink. A floral-on-gray jacket and shell made for a distinctive twinset over a silk skirt with an abstract painterly skirt; a pair of evening gems — little strapless nothings that fell loose from elasticized ruffles — twinkled like the twilight. The only hint of a structured fabric came in a pair of lace looks — a tent dress and romper — that were young and charming.
Under the arch of lightness, Armani showed a range of silhouettes that sometimes felt disconnected. But that was his intention. “The uniformity,” he said, “is given by the colors, from day to evening.”