From Marc Jacobs in New York to Phoebe Philo’s sophomore go at Celinein Paris, the collections have been scaling back to sportswear. So whenGivenchy’s Riccardo Tisci opened his show with a series of spare, boxycoats in neutrals and black, the assumption was that fashion’s Gothshowman was jumping on the bandwagon, too. Well, yes and no. Fall saw acleaner, relatively pared-down, side of Tisci but offered no shortage ofhigh-minded intrigue — the lapels that disappeared into those coats,for instance. It made for a strong and confident outing, one that workeda nice tension between sex appeal and sleek sportif.


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